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OE filters, the way nature intended
We have seen engines that have failed when they used the “billion mile filters” or the “cold air intake” systems. We’ll never recommend any of them. Toyota designed a really nice intake system. Your stock system pulls in cooler air from outside the engine bay, NOT from the hot underhood air. Stick with it and replace it every 10K-12K miles and you are golden.
Genuine Toyota parts
I sell only OE Toyota filters, I've yet to find anything better. Built in anti-drainback, largest filter media surface area than any filter of its size and high quality nitrile rubber sealing o-ring. Toyota put some thought into their filters. you should too. Better (and usually cheaper) than those janky BIG BOX store junk.
All filters include a drain plug gasket. Feel the love.
Fits all 20R / 22R / 22RE / 22RTE / 3VZE and 5VZE
also fits your 2RZ and 3RZ stuff too!
Since there is no “recommended” time or mileage specified by Toyota for fuel filter replacement, it probably has been ignored. Don't replace it with some poorly made aftermarket filter that is prone to falling apart internally (i've seen it happen). This is going to be on your truck for years, install the correct one.
For you EFI guys, it can be a challenge to get to (but not as bad as everyone makes it sound) so if you are doing a cylinder head or engine replacement, do it while is simple to get to. If you don’t have any history of it being replaced, do it!
Carb'd guys will find it under the truck near the fuel tank for the really early trucks or under-hood for all the others
fits 1984-1995 all 22RE / 22RTE EFI (includes sealing washers)
fits all 22R carbureted
NOT made of chinesium, the real deal
OE exhaust manifold stud, nut and bolt kit (also available in singles, see the drop down menu)
These aren't off the shelf, hardware store chinese junk. These are hardened genuine toyota studs and flanged nuts. We did some legwork and mixed and matched different OE Toyota parts to come up with the best stud / nut combo they offered.
Due to the countless number of heat cycles yours have been through, it makes the studs incredibly brittle. When you try to remove yours, you’ll pull most of the aluminum from the thread holes along with them. The last thing you need when installing a new engine is to break a stud during install. Take our word for it, you don’t want try to re-use yours.
Our kits include the correct number of studs, nuts and exhaust plate/secondary air injection bolts as needed for your specific year truck or Celica.
1981-1984 includes 7 studs, 7 nuts and 2 exhaust plate / air injection bolts
1985-1987 22RTE includes 9 studs and nuts
1985-1995 includes 8 studs, 8 nuts and 2 exhaust plate / air injection bolts
Genuine Toyota parts and will work with either factory exhaust manifold and most aftermarket headers
you forgot it was there when you tried to pull the intake. the stripped one. the one you had to use vice-grips to remove.
Well, you tried to remove them. Stripped the head? Yep, you need to get a JIS #2 screwdriver for them.
You own a Toyota, you should own JIS specific screwdrivers (at least some JIS bits for your universal screwdriver).
These are genuine Toyota parts, don’t f-’em up again.
Sold as a pair, so you only need to order quantity 1 for your truck or 4Runner.
the long ones
A/C compressor bolt kit (genuine Toyota parts
These are the looooong bolts that hold the a/c compressor onto the bracket. Use anti-seize when you re-install them.
OE parts, sold in a set of 4
Fits all 1984+ 22R/22RE/22RTE
Fits all 3VZ 1988 to 1995
Also fits 1995-2004 Tacoma 2RZ 2.4L and 3RZ 2.7L
hefty hardware.
transmission crossmember to frame bolts
Sold individually. 4WD takes 8, 2WD takes 4. These are the big dogs that bolt your trans crossmember to the frame of your truck. The tapered end helps to keep it from cross-threading and the wide flanged head keeps it tight.
genuine toyota OE parts (all years)
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