OE filters, the way nature intended

We have seen engines that have failed when they used the “billion mile filters” or the “cold air intake” systems. We’ll never recommend any of them. Toyota designed a really nice intake system. Your stock system pulls in cooler air from outside the engine bay, NOT from the hot underhood air. Stick with it and replace it every 10K-12K miles and you are golden. 

Genuine Toyota parts

I sell only OE Toyota filters, I've yet to find anything better. Built in anti-drainback, largest filter media surface area than any filter of its size and high quality nitrile rubber sealing o-ring. Toyota put some thought into their filters. you should too. Better (and usually cheaper) than those janky BIG BOX store junk.

All filters include a drain plug gasket. Feel the love.

Fits all 20R / 22R / 22RE / 22RTE / 3VZE and 5VZE

also fits your 2RZ and 3RZ stuff too!

Since there is no “recommended” time or mileage specified by Toyota for fuel filter replacement, it probably has been ignored. Don't replace it with some poorly made aftermarket filter that is prone to falling apart internally (i've seen it happen). This is going to be on your truck for years, install the correct one. 

For you EFI guys, it can be a challenge to get to (but not as bad as everyone makes it sound) so if you are doing a cylinder head or engine replacement, do it while is simple to get to. If you don’t have any history of it being replaced, do it! 

Carb'd guys will find it under the truck near the fuel tank for the really early trucks or under-hood for all the others

fits 1984-1995 all 22RE / 22RTE EFI (includes sealing washers)

fits all 22R carbureted

Toyota built a reallllllly good ignition system that works reliably (well, maybe you carbureted guys would beg to differ). Most people have never found the actual “end of life” for the coils for EFI trucks, but here is the Genuine Toyota part, just in case
Fits 1984 to 1992 22RE / 22RTE / 3VZ pick ups and 1st and 2nd gen 4Runner

fits 1993 to 1995 22RE and 3VZ pick up, 1st and 2nd gen 4Runner with the “clip on” plug wires

**Sorry carbureted guys and gals, I don’t have a solution for you

wrangle those wires

If yours are missing, your plug wires become out of control. They clip into the plug wire bracket stays shown above and keep them from laying on your exhaust manifold and keep the under-hood sanitary. These are included with the OE plug wire sets wire sets we sell. If you order a plug wire set, you don’t need these.

The single wire clip has been discontinued, but you can use the 3 wire in its place. You can snip off the 2 extra or just let if fly as is, like you don’t have a care in the world.

fits 1981-1992 22R / 22RE / 22RTE 

for 1993-1995 22RE Toyota does not sell these on their own, they are only available with the full plug wire set. Sorry.

keep your wire set sanitary

OE plug wires can last about the life of your truck. Wanna know why? When you get a new set from me, they have the plastic wire harness clips that attach to THESE on your valve cover. It keeps them from laying on the exhaust manifold and keeps them from abrading/vibrating/rubbing on other junk under your hood. If you want your spark plug wires to last, here is the key to it!

1981-1988 uses 2, 1989-1995 uses 1

I normally recommend having your OE injectors serviced, but I know that isn’t always an option, so here we are. I’ve seen some pretty “creative” injector substitutions that some aftermarket guys will try to sell you (ford injectors? Seriously?) Toyota 22REs run on the ragged edge of “lean” and most aftermarket injectors OVER fuel and cause issues of poor performance, rough idle and poor fuel economy. This isn’t your uncles 1974 Camaro, more fuel doesn’t solve issues….

I’ve had these tested on a calibrated injector tester and the spray pattern is excellent and all 4 injectors match the exact output of fuel. These are remanufactured here in the USA.

You’ll reuse your black locator collar from your injectors, they just snap off and on.

sold as sets of 4

Fit the 1989-1995 pick up and 4Runner

**I’m working on a solution for the 1984-1988 injector replacements and should have some ideas soon.

colds starts don’t have to be hard

Now that you’ve tested the thermo-time switch (usually the culprit) maybe it’s time for the actual cold start injector?

Includes new cold start injector, gasket and 2 copper sealing washers.

Genuine Toyota part.

Fits: 1989-1995 pick up 22RE with the rounded style connect as shown

Fits 1989-ish to 1995 4Runner with the rounded style connector as shown.

**PLEASE check the shape of the harness connect to make sure it matches, this will not interchange with the squared off 1984 -1988 early connector type. If you have questions or need help, send me a pic of yours and I’ll let you know if it’s for you.

for you 1984-1988 peoples, I’m still searching for your square style connector cold start injector, Toyota has discontinued them, but i’m looking….

***make sure you actually need this before ordering. Since it is an electrical part, it is NOT returnable. Call me if you need help with diagnostics, I don’t want you to buy a part you may not need.

regulate that fuel, man.

ya’ know, the leaky thing on your fuel rail….

no, not for the early stuff….

yes, we know you left it on top of the gas pump

don't cross-thread it....... again

keep it clean

banjo!

It's hard to kill a 22RE fuel pump. Sitting for extended periods of time is the most common killer. Old fuel can cause them to seize up. So can the residue left behind when the fuel in the tank evaporates from sitting. 

You lucky 4-Runner guys have an access panel to get to this in the rear cargo area, you pick-up guys will have to drop the tank or lift the bed. 

1984-1991 pick up and 1st / 2nd gen 4Runner aftermarket kit includes: pump, hose+clamps, rubber cushion at in tank hanger and pick up screen filter

1984-1991 pick up and 1st 2nd gen 4Runner FACTORY TOYOTA (pump only, no filter or hose included)

The 1992-1995 OEM Denso kit includes the pump, in-tank filter, short fuel line and the clamps.

it’s not warped, the gasket is good, it’s not 35 years old

leaking? low pressure? 

yes, of course you need it

yours are crispy critters

for turbo trucks only

get rid of that janky nut you have on there, you know better than that

you still have one? shocking!

missing or worn? you need it

I’ve harped on you about how important testing and adjusting your throttle position sensor is. The TPS controls EVERYTHING that makes your 22RE idle properly, accelerate correctly and it is the main input to your ECU that controls your timing advance. If it’s not adjusted properly or is bad, you’ll never get the timing set right. Ever. This is ONE of the most important parts that needs proper testing/set-up to make your 22RE run right. I can't stress enough how important it is to have tested and adjusted this properly. If you call for diagnostic help, this will probably be my first question. Be ready. 

DO NOT SKIP THIS, THIS IS CRUCIAL!    

Toyota didn't make this easy to get the correct one for some years of trucks, sometimes even when the vin # is supplied the part was wrong. for all years. Match the last 5 digits of the part number on yours to the drop down menu above to choose the right one. 

If you have any questions about getting the correct one, PLEASE call me and I'll help you figure out the correct one for your truck. 

Toyota has discontinued the 20050 for the early trucks, and is available as aftermarket only.

not crispy and broken. unlike yours.

yours has seen better days. You lost that paperclip that holds in on, the plastic gave up the ghost a while ago… The thumb lock gave up and left the chat for the later ones.. Get rid of that zip tie and silicone “holding” it all together.

If you’ve read anything about diagnostics on my pages, you know how important the TPS adjustment is to the way your truck runs. When this connector is loose / broken / holding on by a thread, it’s effect diveabilty. You don’t want the connector falling off at the wrong time.

I’d recommend pulling the soldering iron out of the “unused in a long time” drawer of your toolboox to install it properly (i include some shrink tube).Just get the wires in the right spot.

Squared connector (the paper clip holds in on) fits the TPS 89452-20050 and 89452-14050 (1984 to 1989-ish) 22RE / 22RTE / 3VZ

Rounded connector (unlock the connector with the thumb lock) fits 89452-12040, 89452-22090 (1989 to 1995) 22RE and 3VZ

keep an eye on the temp

ECU Temperature sending unit (NOT FOR GAUGE). Genuine Toyota parts, no messing around

Temp sender unit for the ECU. This unit tells the ECU the engine temp only, not for gauge. This is the one in the front of your intake manifold. Recommended to keep your engine working at it’s optimum. Follow the test procedures and replace it as necessary, or just buy a new one and not worry about it. 

(years shown are approx only, check the connector shape)

for 1984-1988 22RE and 22RTE (square connector, upper pic) and GENUINE Toyota part

for 1989-1995 22RE (rounded connector, lower) genuine toyota part

CHECK THE SHAPE OF YOUR CONNECTOR before you order

**includes copper sealing washer

it’s getting to about that time.

test yours before buying.....

If your trucks cranks excessively (more than a few seconds) when it is cold, and you don’t get “fast idle”, check this switch. Most people seem to think it's the actual cold start injector that failed, but 98% of the time it's this switch that has failed. It is the most common reason for both problems. You’ve read my blurb on how to test it, so...... you know it’s bad. Right? 

fits 1984-1988 pickup and 4Runner (up to 89-ish) with the brown, square connector AFTERMARKET ONLY, discontinued by Toyota

fits 1989-1995 pick up and 4Runner with the black, rounded connector (the one that unlocks by thumb) Genuine TOYOTA parts

the one on the thermostat housing

Yeah, that one.

often ignored, but crucial

for the OIL LIGHT on your dash, NOT for the gauge

for the gauge..... not the light

for you late model guys only…

I know, you broke the thumb tab off…….

OE filters, the way nature intended

PCV hose (from PCV valve to intake manifold)

Your hose from your intake to the PCV valve is as hard as a rock and brittle.  It’s close to 30 years old. C’mon. Do you expect it to seal on the new PCV valve? You don’t want a vacuum leak issue that is caused by the worn (and not sealing properly) PCV hose. 

Available with or without clips/clamps

OE parts

a crucial part of your pcv system

Your PCV system is a "sealed" system. It draws filtered air from before the throttle plate (or from the filter housing for you carb'd) through this hose into the crankcase and then through your PCV valve and into the intake. This hose from your valve cover (right behind the oil cap) to throttle body (or air filter housing to v/c for you carb'd guys) is brittle and not sealing right. It’s 20+ years old. You’ve already noticed the cracks on it. Don’t skimp. C’mon. You don’t want a vacuum leak. 

OE parts

air intake boot (throttle body to pipe) 

If you’ve ever thrown a couple of rev’s at your engine with the hood open, you’d see how much it rocks back and forth. Multiply that by 20+ years of driving combined with under-hood heat and you’ll understand how these develop cracks in them. When cracked they let in un-metered air causing rough run due to running lean. Check for the cracks in the “low spots” of the accordion (especially on the underside).

Toyota decided to discontinue these for some reason, but I’ve found great quality alternatives.

1984 to 1988 22RE pick up and 1st gen 4Runner

1989 to 1995 22RE pick up and 2nd gen 4Runner

sorry, NOT AVAILABLE FOR 22RTE or Celica

nope, not for what you think

that thing hanging on the bottom of your throttle body.

idle air control valve (IAC valve)

This is the goodie that bolts to the bottom of your throttle body on your 1989-1995 22RE truck. It comes into play when the engine is cold and allows more air into the intake to create the high idle when cold (along with the cold start injector) to help with getting the engine to normal operating temperature. 

Includes rubber o-ring and I include a set of allen screws, washers and an allen wrench for your install pleasure (you'll destroy the screws when you pull it off of your throttle body). 

****PLEASE NOTE: this IAC is for the 1989-1995 years ONLY. Sorry, there is no option for your 1984-1988 22RE truck. They have been discontinued many years ago from toyota and I have yet to find any on the aftermarket. I have heard they are "rebuildable / cleanable", but I've never tried it personally, so I don't have any instructions on how to do it (nor are there any rebuild parts available for it). 

get the hardware too

it fits! 

Original equipment Toyota vacuum line

The correct size and material is not available from your local parts store.  I know you’ve tried the overpriced silicone blue/black stuff and you’ve found that it doesn’t fit exactly right either (and isn't emissions legal here in California). You know that the original equipment Toyota hose fits right and last for decades. Replace it as needed with the right part. Tell me how much you need.  

** sorry, there are no hard and fast rules on how much your truck needs. It varies wildly from year to year and model to model. Pop your hood and take a quick eyeball and you’ll hafta estimate.

sold in 2 foot lengths that you cut to fit the size needed

37 inch length is for the throttle body to charcoal canister on injected models

51 inch is for the cruise control servo (some models with OE cruise control only)

shouldn’t be crispy

so many names…..

**Looks like Toyota has discontinued these, I’ll post them up if any oof my back orders show…..

Let’s make a (controlled) vacuum leak!

These come into play at idle to create a slight vacuum leak to raise the idle when the a/c compressor clicks on. Notice how one line come from in front of the throttle plate? See how the other is after the throttle plate? When ground is applied to the VSV, it opens allowing the “vacuum leak” to happen and raise the idle slighty by letting the air get passed the closed throttle plate. Ingenious and simple.

**make sure you test and double test (and then test it all again) to make sure that yours is actually bad before you order one of these. They are NOT returnable. And they are stupidly expensive.

Fits truck and 4Runner only

**you lucky kids with 1988/89, pay close attention to your connector type and match it up, they can be either one

**NOT for Celica (different harness connector)

Genuine toyota part

new and not plugged up

WITH the o-ring, not like those other guys

I’ve finally cracked the code for a proper fitting upper hose for the EFI trucks (Toyota has discontinued them). The kits still uses the factory middle and lower hoses.

I only sell these specific hoses for a reason. I've seen the "direct fit" hoses available on the aftermarket and can't believe they get away with it. Most aren't the correct inside diameter to fit onto your radiator/engine/pipe, which lead to leaks. The bends aren't in the right spots........etc. 

I have the right kit for your specific year and model. They fit right the first time without the hassle.

I offer the kits with the OE spring type clamps. They never wear out, they never need tightening and will last for your next set of hoses too. Recommended.

*upper hose for EFI is aftermarket (toyota has discontinued them) the middle and lower hoses are factory Toyota parts.

**FOR 1979-1983 PICK-UP AND ALL CELICA.... SORRY, TOYOTA HAS DISCONTINUED YOUR HOSES LONG AGO. I DON'T HAVE A SOURCE FOR THEM***

22RTE TURBO GUYS…… TOYOTA HAS DISCONTINUED THE MIDDLE HOSE (THE ONE BETWEEN THE TIMING COVER AND PIPE). I still haven’t found a decent alternative for it. Sorry. Your kit will include only the aftermarket upper and factory toyota lower hose.

yes, that one.

install the right ones, you deserve it.

not corroded!

factory fresh!

Genuine Toyota water pump and gasket

You all asked, and here it is. This is the actual made in Japan factory part (the TOYOTA name is cast into it, not ground flat like the aftermarket Aisin, this is in a Toyota box)…..

Includes the water pump, a factory gasket and fan clutch studs installed. I recommend the OE hardware with it, but hey, you do your thing.

*since these are factory parts, they have that odd look to the casting, just like your original did. I guess its a Toyota thing.

**sorry 1981 to 1984 brethren, toyota discontinued yours. Find the OEM Aisin version here.

Available with OE factory hardware kit too (see the dropdown when you add to cart

Fits 1985-1995 22RE / 22RTE 4Runner

Fits 1985-1995 22R/ 22RE / 22RTE pick up (2WD and 4WD

Fits 1985 22RE Celica

The same, but different

Yeah, Aisin is the supplier to Toyota.

Are they the same as the one in the Toyota box? Maaaaaaaaaaybe. I can’t seem to find a difference by eyeball. Run it!

Made in Japan and includes the gasket (factory material type) and 4 studs for the fan clutch.

Fits 1981-1984 pick up and 1st gen 4Runner

Fits 1985-1995 pick up and 4Runner 22R / 22RE / 22RTE

Fits 1985 Celica 22RE

**available with or without factory hardware kit in the dropdown menu

I still have the factory Toyota pump if you want to go that route: CLICK HERE

no frostbite allowed

last OE 1984-1988 pick up / 1st gen 4Runner available.

1989-1995 discontinued.

**may be discontinued as of August 2026, still trying to get word from Toyota

heater temp control stiff? mayyyyyybe it’s this!

if you heater control on your dash is hard to move (the one that controls the heat / cool), it may not be your heater valve, it could be this cable. Not only does it make it hard to move, it can be putting undo stress on your heater knob controls. Too much stress on the plastic heater controls because of the binding cable can make the arms on it break. THAT IS NOT FUN. Not only is nightmare to pull your dash apart and replace the control assembly, it’s expensive too.

If your heater control is stiff and hard to move, let’s see what is causing the issue:

Pop your hood and push the looped metal end of the cable off of the heater valve itself (don’t unclip it off of the valve just yet). Now move the heater valve arm with your hand. Does it move freely? Not hard to move? Good. Any binding or heavy resistance means it’s time to replace your heater valve. Now, while it’s still unhooked, go inside the truck and move the heater control from heat to cold. If there is any kind of resistance or feels like it’s binding, it’s prolly the cable.

Either way, don’t but the extra stress on your heater control assembly. Replace what is needed.

Genuine TOYOTA part

Fits all 1983-1988 pickup and 1984-1989 1st Gen 4Runner

*Sorry, not available for trucks up to 1983 or any year Celica.

** discontinued for 1989-1995 pick up and 2nd gen 4Runner

not crunchy or leaky!

Heater hoses and clamp kit

Toyota has discontinued all of the heater hoses, but, I have found a great aftermarket solution!

Think about how long your original factory hoses have lasted. they are reaching 30+ years now. Your hoses are old and have lived out their useful life. The ends that connect to the heater valve and heater pipes have corrosion build up that won't let them seal properly.

This kit includes all 3 hoses and also available with OE clamps. I recommend the spring type since hey are far superior and cannot be over or under tightened (unlike those janky worm drive clamps. You weren’t going to use those, were you?

or order JUST the clamps needed on the drop down, prices are EACH clamp.

Sorry, not available for Celica, pre-1984 trucks, 86-88' turbo trucks or those of you with a rear heater

not rotten!

stainless steel heater pipe to replace your rotting one.

This pipe goes from under the middle of your intake manifold, around the back of the cylinder head and to the heater hose at the heater valve.

You’ve got a ton of corrosion build up at the spot under the heater hose connection and are having a hard time keeping it from leaking. That’s if you are one of the lucky ones, you may be having issues with the rotting pipe at the intake side and that is certified as “no fun”.

Replace your rotting junk with this oh-so-pretty stainless one and be done with it for another 25 years (or so. Ya’ know, change your coolant and stuff, YMMV…..)

The pipe includes a new sealing o-ring and OE hardware at the manifold side. and, no, it is not a square o-ring. It got square by being squished in the spot on the manifold.

Fits 1984-1995 22R / 22RE / 22RTE

more stainless fun!

unlike yours, these aren’t broken.

The lever assembly can get stiff, worn and bad cables/heater valve can put undo stress on it and accelerate the broken-ness.

This lever assembly includes the cable clips, but it doesn’t include the fan motor switch, you will just re-use yours.

There are few different variations throughout the years and some have been discontinued. Throw me your vin number via email and I can verify that is available before you order it.

Fits 1984-1888 pick up and 1984-1989 1st gen 4Runner have been discontinued and are not longer available. Sorry, I don’t have any great suggestions for you

Fits 1989-1995 pick-up and 1990-1995 2nd gen 4Runner

*Genuine Toyota parts

missing? we can help

your fan speeds are weak and you should be ashamed.

you know, the one that’s hard to get to

coolant bypass pipe. timing cover to intake manifold, passenger side.

This is that silly beast that corrodes over time (usually under the hose ends) and gives you the mysterious coolant leak. Or worse, the leak that was going on while you were driving and you only noticed when you saw the temp gauge rising.

These usually start corroding under the bypass hose connection (right where the clamps are) and since it is the intake manifold AND throttle body lines that connect to it, you get the double dose of corrosion fun. If you are carb’d, it’s just a single hose, so, slightly less to go south.

The gasket for this is actually part of your intake gasket. Yeah, it’s never easy, is it? So if you are replacing it with the timing cover still on, let me know and I’ll send you a sacrificial paper timing cover gasket that you can cut out the soot for it and LIGHTLY silicone in place. If you are doing this pipe the same time as the timing kit, use the factory timing cover gaskets and you are golden.

fits 1984-1989 22R carbureted

Fits 1986-1995 22RE / 22RTE

For 1984-1985 22RE you’ll need the “update kit” shown in the dropdown menu, your configuration of pipe and bypass hose have been discontinued so you’ll need to update the whole shebang (pipe, bypass hose, clamps and intake manifold elbow) as shown in the pics.

under the intake manifold on the passenger side…

This is the hose that goes from the by-pass union under the intake to the #3 pipe stainless pipe on the rear of the timing cover. Well hidden, so it's often ignored. If you've never replaced it, it's probably time.

Re-use your spring clamps OR order them with it if someone has already installed the worm-drive shenanigans. We don't recommend worm-drive clamps for these due to the small diameter. The spring clamps never need adjustment and will last a lifetime. 

the EFI version is a USA made hose (toyota has discontinued it. Sorry)

Carbureted is genuine toyota parts

**Not for 22RTE (unless you’ve removed the oil cooler)

****** for 1984-1985 see the update kit here…. (the 1984-1985 hose / pipe has been discontinuted)

located under the intake

These are the most neglected cooling hoses on your truck. They carry the coolant to the throttle body and to the idle air control valve under your intake. Since they are “out of sight, out of mind” they generally get ignored. Age and mileage make the hoses swollen, spongy and worn. Don’t ignore them, it’s part of your cooling system. 

NEVER use worm-drive/screw clamps on these. The small diameter of the hose makes it nearly impossible to get a screw type clamp to hold them correctly and they also will cut into the rubber. 

Re-use your spring clamps or order them with the hose kit. 

**one of the hoses for the 1984-1988 has been discontinued by Toyota, I substitute another Toyota hose that will need minor trimming…

oh, they are fun to replace!

come get some.

Jim designed these billet v/c half moons because he was tired of the rubber ones are constantly seeping oil. We tested every version of the rubber half-moons we could get our hands on from the expensive factory ones all the way down to the chinese knock off versions, all of them had the same issue. This will be the last set you'll have to buy.

A bead of ultra-gray on the rounded side that touches the cylinder head is the only sealant you'll need for the life of them. 

PRICE IS FOR A SET OF TWO. That is enough for 1 truck

Beware of the imitators that stole our design, get the originals. 

fits all 20R/22R/22RE/22RTE

oh, they really are as cool as they look

billet v/c grommet kits, 22RE Performance exclusive

**all colors back in stock!

Well, here is more cool stuff from the mind of Jim. Valve cover grommets have always been a weak spot (along with the half moons, but Jim already created those from billet too), so Jim designed these grommets. The v/c grommets you are using now have a limited life, they get hard with age and lose their ability to keep proper torque on the cover allowing oil seep in all of the wrong spots. They are also kind of wasteful too, that’s a lot of expensive rubber and metal to throw away every year.

With a machined groove, these are designed to seal by using a replaceable o-ring. Your grommets (just like our billet half moons) are now reusable for the life of your engine with just a simple o-ring replacement. Self centering on the valve cover, they are simple to install since we also include the proper Allen wrench with our kit.

available in raw aluminum or anodized colors and include the stainless hardware (choose options in the drop-down menu).

Custom made just for 22RE Performance.

If you own some of this magic and need o-rings, let me know and we can get some rolling to you

Fits ALL 20R / 22R / 22RE / 22RTE

**these require the removal of your valve cover studs for installation, easily accomplished with a stud puller or vice-grips if you are feeling frisky.

**see below for the other valve cover related parts

raw and anodized deliciousness

OE GASKETS with billet stuff

Kits. I have kits…..

GASKET KIT 1 includes OE v/c gasket and billet half moons

GASKET KIT 2 includes OE v/c gasket, billet half moons and billet grommet kit (grommets, o-rings, stainless allen bolts and allen key

I use only factory Toyota OE gaskets with these kit. Because they work.

You already know the story of the billet goodness shown, so order away.

I can also mix colors of grommets / half moons on any of the shown kits, just let me know what you want.

and remember, silicone only on the rounded side of the half moons.

Fits all 20E / 22R / 22RE / 22RTE

come get ‘em!

squishy

our nuts are shiny

they're the good ones. all of them.

genuine Toyota FULL engine gasket set

**don’t forget to tell me what color billet half moons you’d like, or let me know if you want the rubber ones..

unlike “the other guys” we go beyond what is normally included in their gasket set. We start with a full Toyota gasket set and add our billet half moons, heater pipe o-ring, distributor shaft o-ring, PCV grommet and SAI gaskets (1988+).

Do you really want to chase down those “surprise” missing goodies when you are finishing your engine build? Didn’t think so.

Every engine build should start with the proper gasket set. We start with an OE factory gasket set and add plenty of other goodies to make this the most complete set you can get. Stop messing with incomplete aftermarket kits with poor quality gaskets.

   •    Head gasket                                                                                                                           

   •    Valve cover gasket

   •    4 valve cover grommets

    •    Our aluminum half moon seals 

    •    Timing cover gaskets

    •    water pump gasket

    •    fuel pump / fuel pump block off gasket

    •    EGR cooler plate (rear of cylinder head)

    •    EGR to upper intake plenum gasket

    •    copper gaskets for cold start injector 

    •    oil cap seal

•    Rear crankshaft seal (double lip design)

•    Rear main seal housing gasket

•    Front crankshaft seal (oil pump seal)

•    Exhaust manifold to pipe crush gaskets (2)    

•    Throttle body gasket

•    SAIR tube gaskets (89-95 EFI & 85-88 carb'd)

•    Distributor o-ring

•    Heater pipe o-ring (at intake manifold)

•    PCV grommet

•    Idle speed screw o-ring (for efi only)

•    injector o-ring seals at fuel rail

•    Oil pick up tube gasket

•    Cold start injector gasket

•    8 valve stem seals

•    Thermostat o-ring

•    Fuel rail to cold start injector copper gaskets

•    Copper o-rings for fuel line to rail 

•    intake manifold gasket

•    intake plenum gasket

•    exhaust manifold gasket

•    2 exhaust gaskets (for SAIR pipe or block offs)

• oil pan gasket in the 1981-1984 sets only, 1985-1995 use ultra-grey

**PLEASE NOTE: GASKET SETS ARE NOT RETURNABLE, SO MAKE SURE YOU ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS BEFORE ORDERING

***1981 to 1984 base kit is OE Toyota, exhaust manifold gasket is OEM aftermarket

just what you need

**don’t forget to tell me what color billet half moons you’d like, or let me know if you want the rubber ones..

We start with a factory OE gasket set and include other goodies to make it a more complete kit.  

This head gasket set includes: head gasket, intake gasket, plenum gasket, egr cooler plate gasket, fuel pump block off gasket, v/c gasket, v/c grommets, our billet aluminum half moons, exhaust manifold gasket, s.a.i.r. / block off plate gaskets, exhuast manfiold to down pipe donuts, thermostat seal, oil cap seal and the fuel line copper washers.

*some gaskets vary between carb, year of EFI and n/a or turbo

We've yet to find better gaskets than what were installed on your truck from the factory.

fits years shown in drop down menu 22R/22RE/22RTE (some gasket may differ from photos, year dependent)

22RTE gasket set does not include ANY turbo gaskets and exhaust manifold gasket is aftermarket (toyota has discontinued them)

** please note: GASKET SETS CANNOT BE RETURNED, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ASK THE CORRECT QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU ORDER

let's do it right

feel the seal

When you need them, don’t mess around with aftermarket junk. These are factory toyota metal clad Viton seals.

When you get your cylinder head pressure tested and surfaced, bring these with you for your machinist to install. Order a set along with your head gasket set and you are good for another 200k.

Fits all 20R / 22R / 22RE / 22RTE

**set include all 8 seals

** fits up to 1984 (and early 1985 with the 19mm drain plug) ONLY ONLY ONLY. DO NOT USE THIS ON YOUR late-1985-1995

it’s not warped, the gasket is good, it’s not 35 years old

yeah, I know.

the right material

non-crunchy

mine aren’t 30 years old, cracked or squished.

the good kind, not like the leaky one you have

built right to seal right

exhaust manifold gasket (toyota OE and OEM)

Once you've surfaced your exhaust manifold and replaced the bad exhaust studs, this is the gasket to use to keep the exhaust leaks from returning. This isn't that cheapo compressed paper gasket the other guys sell, this is the metal, graphite coated OE /OEM gasket that is meant to last. 

**Hey! no gasket can seal a warped exhaust manifold, make sure yours is flat. 

1981 - 1984 gasket is OEM aftermarket, Toyota has discontinued it

again, the correct material and flatness is key

the crush ones

get the hardware too

nice and new.

OE only

graphite coated for a reason

graphite-y!

graphite coated goodness

housing to block gasket